Saturday, March 24, 2012
Hubley Racer Restoration - Part 2
Whenever I try a new skill from another trade or profession, I always end up appreciating what these men and women do for a living. Toy restoring is no different, as are the bodyshop people who repair and restore cars to their original condition.
I see already that there will be definitely be part 3 and even a part 4 to this Hubley # 5 car racer toy restoration. I also see that I've learned once and for all one of my previous comments about what I've learned in a year of selling toys. Buy quality, and you will sell easier, and with less headaches. However, I must confess that restoring this toy is not a headache, but more of an experience.
The "candidate" for restoration
Luckily, I have another Hubley # 5 in excellent condition to compare with
my restoration job.
This is how they look with good lighting for selling on E-Bay
This lighting is called "side lighting"or "texture lighting".
It's the same as the previous photo, but without additional light to fill in the shadows.
This lighting shows the good areas as well as the bad areas that need much more work.
Harsh light to show faults
Softer light
Harsh light to show faults
Softer light
You can see how the body filler builds up the areas that were badly oxidized.
Lessons learned from my first attempt at restoration
1. It's not as easy as it seems.
2. Be patient.
a. Sand gently
b. Use your files gently as well, otherwise you'll break off the body filler.
3. Be persistent. You can only get better ( I
hope!).
I finally carefully filed out the epoxy putty from the grooves, and then sanded with 220, then 400, then 600 grade sandpaper. I was thinking that a jeweller or casting person would probably be a good person to speak with. They have to carve intricate detail into moulds and cast metal before doing a final polish and finish. Furthermore, they work on small-sized objects just like small toys.
I then applied one coat of primer, and let it dry. It's cold today (Sunday March 25, 2011), and I placed the sprayed car outdoors. Because of the cold, the dried primer on the car was still a bit "wet" or sticky.
The reason that I sprayed the primer outdoors and left the car outdoors after spraying is that the fumes from the primer are strong. I don't want my wife or Buddy to have to breathe them in!
THe primer takes longer to dry of course on a cold day, and the same goes for the elimination of the strong vapours associated with the spray.
On a cold day, this may take 4-5 hours compared with a warm day that takes half to a quarter of the time. However, as the expression goes - better safe than sorry!
To be continued........
Thanks as usual for dropping by, and
wherever you may be, have a restful Sunday.
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