Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Arcade Cast Iron Toy Restoration - Part III

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Arcade Cast Iron Truck Restoration
Part III

     I waited overnight for the Lepage's Epoxy Steel to harden and cure completely. The word "cure" is simply a term that is applied to a glue for it to harden. Fortunately today was sunny and I was able to go outdoors to cut the excess epoxy from the toy.

wThe above 2 photos were what happened after the epoxy dried.

I now had to use my high-speed Dremel with several different cutting heads.

I used a higher speed of about 10,000-15,000 RPM's (revolutions per Minute) to  cut off the unneeded and excess epoxy.

I used a small-headed cutting tip to bore through the spaces.

ONce I had a hole, I then carefully moved the cutting head sideways to open up the 3 openings.

wI then used a wire-head drill bit to remove the rest of the excess material.

I couldn't get the drill bit into the corner, 
so I used on of my tiny had files to file away the excess in the corner.

One thing that I don't like is how the wire-head brush stains the cast iron metal and smooths it.

I'm worried that the smooth surface  form using the wire head brush will be too smooth, 
and will show differently from the untouched surrounding areas.


I cut too much off the top.

Next time I'm doing a repair of this nature, I'll use a small piece of wood as a guide.
 That will make sure that I keep the level of the area needing grinding level with the rest of the toy.

"Live and Learn" or  Practise Makes Perfect" are 2 commons expressions that certainly apply to any new skill that you want to learn.

I still have plenty of epoxy.

I added some more on top.

IHere is the result after I ground down the extra epoxy.
I only waited 1 hour for the glue to dry, before I ground  down  the extra epoxy.

I'll still need to use a fine # 400 sandpaper to smooth pout the rough surface.

For that, I will wait the full 24 hours for the epoxy to cure properly. 

Another factor that impresses me with the Lepage's Epoxy Steel is that the instructions actually work. I can't tell you how many times that I've placed the cap of a glue tube back on the tube, and when you come back 1 month later to use the glue it's solid as a rock inside.
I only used the glue 3 times in 1 week, and the 2 liquids of the epoxy (epoxy and hardener) still pour out well. I still had to use a nail to poke holes in each side, but the glue still flows!
The glue did not fill in those tiny cracks. What I'll do is perhaps add several layers of primer to seal the cracks and add some strength.

So that's it for today.
Today's procedure did not work out to 100%, but I learned something.
Thanks for continuing to follow this blog, and as always,
have a good morning, afternoon, or evening,
wherever you may be.


Troy said...

I wonder if you could sand blast the repaired area to give it some texture?

toysearcher said...

Hi Troy,

That's a good idea, but I don't want to spend more time meeting with Steve to give him the toy, then waiting.

Also, I've used a sand blaster once, and the pressure is quite strong.

I'm worried about stressing the side parts adjacent to the repair. There are cracks already, and I don't want to weaken the side any more.

I'll try to figure out something to make the area look similar to the adjacent areas.
I just had an idea, thanks to you, of trying to pour sand on the almost-dried primer. The sand should make micro-dents but fall off due to the drying of the primer, rather than it being in a "sticky stage".

Thanks again,