Friday, September 30, 2011

Mystical Software Suite From AutoFX Software

Friday, September 30, 2011

Mystical Software Suite 
From AutoFX Software

TTC Part
(Tint-Tone-Color)

     I've been hard at work adding about 20 posts to my other blog on Pro Photography Learning which can be found at:

http://prophotographylearning.blogspot.com/

The latest instalments or posts have to do with an interesting software that comes in 3 effects:

1. Focus
2. Lighting
3. Tint-Tone-Color

So for today's post, I decided to present you with the TTC portion. Basically, this part of the software allows you to  work with changing the colour, changing colour into monotones (1 colour), and even intensifying or muting straightforward image colour.

As with most software companies, AutoFX allows you to work with a demo version for 30 days, but you won't be able to save any of the images. However, if you really wanted to, you could enlarge the image and do a screen capture. So without any more discussion, here are a dozen photos that I altered to give them that "retro" appearance.














Thursday, September 22, 2011

Photomatix- Having Some Fun

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Photomatix- Having Some Fun

       I was working on an image in Photoshop, but wasn't getting what I wanted. If I spent more time on the file I would have eventually got what I was after. Anyway, I decided to go to Photomatix. I got what I was after on the first try, and then decided to have a "fun episode" again. What I did was simply take single or multiple images and then process then in Photomatix in either tone-mapping or HDR. Just to remind everyone, HDR is an acronym for "high density range". This term simply means that your photo or scene (that you will photograph) has too big a spread between the brightest and the darkest tones. Just remember that there's nothing wrong in "losing" detail in these tones, but in  the "pro World", your client 99% of the time want his/her product to be seen entirely!  Tone-mapping is a process whereby you take 1 or several images and combine them to create a "dramatic lighting". The different bright and dark areas (highlights and shadows) are taken from the single or several images and then "blended" to come up with the "dramatic lighting". 

      BDE (Before the Digital Era- my own acronym),  a person by the name of Aaron Jones invented and patented a lighting machine that was called "Hosemaster". It is a light unit with a high-intensity light bulb (like a slide-projector bulb, whose light passes through a fiber-optic tube to reach the end of the hose. Different-sized heads are used for different effect. He also, I believe invented the term "light-painting", because that is exactly what you do. In total darkness, you take the head of this light unit, and "brush" or "paint" different parts of an item or scene. This is all done in the studio. The results are super! In the BDE era, you needed lots of Polaroid film to get the exposures correct, and then you applied the technique to film. Aaron also added a large separate shutter in front of the camera that could open and close (while the camera lens was entirely open all the time). Exposures anywhere from 5 seconds to up to  20 seconds were usual, and the whole "light painting process" could take as much as 15 minutes just to do 1 shot!

    What tone-mapping or HDR do is what Aaron Jones invented, but in a much easier manner, and with less time. I will do an instalment either in this blog or in my ProPhotoLearning Blog to show you how it's done. The process can also be done outdoors with a flashlight or even a camera flash.

The Process

1. Find Your Photos


I use Lightroom, although any filing software or even the software that comes with your camera will do.

2. Load Your Images



3. Export Your Selected Photos to the Desktop or wherever you want.


4. Lightroom had a moving line to let you see how much longer the export will take.
These softwares sure are getting more user-firendly!



 The files (photos) are exported to wherever you want them
I placed mine on my desktop.
Notice that Lightroom places them in a file, to which you can then re-label.




5. Close Lightroom unless you have lots of RAM memory and then open your files in Photomatix


 6. Inform Photomatix what you'd like to do (tone-mapping or HDR)











7. Another Menu Instruction - Load Your Images Into Photomatix

8. Make sure your photos have a different exposure

Remember that it's the different exposures and intensities that will
create the drama in the final combined image. If you only have 1 image, you can create several "slightly different ones in Photoshop or any other imaging software and save them".

9. I simply changed the E.V. differences between my same-exposure images to 1 1/3 from 1/3, and then load them for processing.

10. Here's where I finally load them into Photomatix


11. You will have the above window appear once you process your images in Photomatix.

You can change the large image:
a. By clicking on the small  photos below the large image
b. By pressing on "Lighting Adjustments" in the left vertical menu next to the bumper of this car.


This is the "medium" using the vertical  menu to the left of the bumper


This is the "natural" using the vertical  menu to the left of the bumper


This is the result of  using the bottom menu, specifically using the white bordered car


And yet still 1 more variation

Once you're finished, you then save the image somewhere.

Below is a sampling of some toys that I selected for the 2 processes.













 Thanks once again for dropping by, and I hope this post perked your interest.

Have good morning, good afternoon, or good evening wherever this message will find you.













Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Photoshop-Working With Text

Wednesday, September 21, 2011


 Photoshop-Working With Text

     One of the features that most software programs have is the ability to add text. Photoshop is no different. I'm sure most of you have worked with a text-editing software such as Microsoft Word, so I won't go into how to use the many variations of the text. I'll just touch lightly on the topic.

1. Open a File

2. Enlarge the File to Fit the Screen
This is easier on your eyes.

3. Press on the icon T on the Left Vertical Menu
T represents the Text Menu

Just an Enlargement of the Command Buttom for Text

The Top Menu Relating to Text Functions



The Top Menu left to Right
The Fonts.....

Next to the Fonts is
the nature of the font (Sharp, strong...)

Font Size

Font Colour

Expanded Font Colour Menu


Positioning of the Text on the Photo
Left, Centre, or Right

Text Warping Menu
This Sub-Menu Allows You to "bend" the Text


The Expanded Warp Menu


Another More-Detsiled Expanded Warp Menu

The Colour Selection Window
Experiment with your colour selection.
Some colours don't work well as they are hard on the eye (too light or dark), 
or they may "clash" with the photo's contents.

After you click on the text icon (left vertical side menu),
your mouse icon becomes a vertical line

Also, a new layer is created and
shows on the right-side menu



Just 1 more text menu

The layers menu on the right side still shows the
photo with 2 layers (the photo and the text).

You will need to merge the files together

At the bottom of the layers menu (Just above you here)
is the "Merge Doswn" command.

When you press this , the layers will merge to 1 layer


Now the layers menu shows you only 1 layer

The Final Image



Don't forget:

Save the new file as something other than the original name!